If this isn’t one of the best bubblies in Spain, then what is? It gets no dosage, so what you taste is just the natural flavor of top-shelf Macabeo, Xarello and Parellada—aged four plus years on its yeast. The flavors are pure light citrus and tropical fruit along with some toast and cream. The finish is persistent, the mouthfeel ethereal. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.——M.S.(12/31/2002)—— 91