The estate's 2011 Brigantino presents the unique qualities of Malvasia di Casorzo, one of the many grapes native to this part of Piedmont. An exotic, beguiling bouquet redolent of balsamic-infused spices, prune cake, tar and leather add complexity to the dark red fruit, while underlying notes of minerals, petrol and graphite give the wine its length, vibrancy and focus. This is a gorgeous, sparkling red dessert wine to enjoy over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. I was blown away by the wines I tasted from Accornero. This under-the-radar estate in the Monferrato district deserves serious attention. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

The 2010 Brigantino is a unique sweet red sparkling wine made from Moscato di Casorzo. It has the aromatic profile of Moscato with the berry fruit and weight of a red grape, but without the herbal profile of Braccheto, if that makes sense. It is an attractive mid-weight wine loaded with personality. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This is a fabulous lineup from Accornero replete with a number of wines that deliver superb value. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

The 2009 Casorzo Brigantino is a sweet sparkling red made from Malvasia di Casorzo. Readers looking for something different should make the extra effort to taste this utterly delicious wine. Dark red fruit, flowers and subtle herbs are all supported by a delicate yet persistent vein of minerality that keeps everything in balance. This is a fabulous effort from Accornero. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

The 2008 Casorzo Brigantino (Malvasia and Casorzo) is a beautiful, sparkling red perfect for pairing with fruit-based desserts. The balance here is impeccable, with the white Malvasia contributing the aromatics and the red Casorzo the punch in the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2010. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898