Another dark brooding wine, the 2008 Centenario (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Barbera) emerges from the glass with scorched earth, black fruit, tar, incense and licorice. Savory herbs and balsamic notes follow as the wine continues to flesh out in the glass. At times a bit wild, the Centenario shows superb length and richness all the way through to the palate staining finish. This is another big boy, but all the elements are in the right place. I am very curious to see how this ages. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. I was blown away by the wines I tasted from Accornero. This under-the-radar estate in the Monferrato district deserves serious attention. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

The 2007 Centenario is a Barbera/Cabernet Sauvignon blend made to celebrate the estate’s tenth anniversary. It shows quite a bit of promise in a blast of dark fruit, but then loses some of its persistence on the mid-palate and finish. This is a relatively plush style, but the wine never seems to fully come together in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is a fabulous lineup from Accornero replete with a number of wines that deliver superb value. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898