Lots of smoky leather and crushed black pepper in this wine, a clear sign the Syrah comes from a cool climate. Crisp acidity, too, giving the wine a bright mouthfeel. Might even have a drop of Viognier. There’s a citrusy lift to the blackberries and black currants. Should develop smoothly through 2013.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 91