The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a cool, taut wine laced with sweet red cherries, flowers, tobacco and licorice, all of which come together on a focused, mid-weight frame. The tension between fruit, acidity and structure is beautiful to behold. Readers who enjoy firm, ageworthy Brunelli will love this Riserva. Today the wine is fresh and vibrant, but it should develop even more fully over the coming years as the tannins soften. This is an impressive showing from Barbi. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Importer: Pasternak Wine Imports, Harrison, NY; tel. (914) 630-8213