Blackberries, sage, rosemary, mint, licorice and white pepper are some of the many notes that emerge from the 2010 Syrah Bouquet Garni. Rich, dark, and sumptuous, the 2010 possesses fabulous depth and spiciness, not to mention considerable personality. The 2010 has developed beautifully since I first tasted it last year. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Luc Morlet must surely have one of the broadest portfolios in California between the wines he makes under his own labels and for his consulting clients. There are a lot of beautiful wines in this range, although I have to admit, I tend to prefer the wines Morlet makes in Napa Valley over those from Sonoma. I have a slight preference for the 2011 Chardonnays over the 2010s, as I find the more recent vintage a touch more refined. In addition to these wines, I also tasted all of the 2011 Pinots, but found them in an awkward, raw state that is not unusual for young wines from this cold and very late harvest. Tel. (707) 967-8690

The 2010 Syrah Bouquet Garni is intensely spiced and floral from start to finish. Dark cherries, plums, mint, wild flowers and spices are some of the many nuances that take shape in the glass as this vibrant wine opens up. Floral notes continue to develop, lending an air of delicateness to the finish notwithstanding the presence of firm underlying tannins. I am very curious to watch how this wine develops over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup.Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com