The 2017 Encruzado O Oenólogo was partly fermented in cement (75%), the rest in new French oak. It comes in at 13% alcohol. Bright, fresh and a little earthy, this slightly delicate white is most notable for the pure power on the finish. There is plenty of grip and tension. It lifts the fruit and enlivens the palate. It's balanced, however, not at all an acid-freak wine. Overall, though, this graceful white should be better for a food pairing. Happily, you hardly notice the wood after a few minutes.