This historic property located in Sant’Angelo in Colle traces its roots back to the late 1800s. Today the wines are made by Fabrizio Bindocci, who cut his teeth working alongside Piero Talenti, one of the most famous figures in the world of Montalcino oenology. Although some small concessions are made to modern tastes the wines remain quite classic in their expression of Sangiovese. Il Poggione’s 2001 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a very distinctive nose redolent of scorched earth, tobacco and cherries initially showing a wilder side of Sangiovese in its hints of gaminess. It is full-bodied and structured on the palate, where it offers plenty of fruit, with considerable length as well as big, potent tannins. This backward, hulking Brunello is in need of considerable cellaring and is clearly built for the long haul. It is a wine of great personality and character. A recent bottle of the 1985 was also outstanding. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2023. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900.

Complex and seductive, with blackberry and cherry character with just a hint of cedar. Full-bodied and chewy, with loads of fruit. Extracted and tannic, but should come around. Best after 2010. 16,000 cases made. -JS