The 2003 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Occhio di Pernice possesses rich, baritone layers of plums, dried prunes, tobacco leaves, worn-in leather, licorice and cloves. There is a deep, inner sweetness that recalls port, along with a beautifully nuanced centeredness that shimmers across the palate. Despite the warm growing season, this is anything but a precocious wine, if anything, it needs at least a few more years in the bottle! The 2003 is the first vintage I have tasted of the estate’s Occhio di Pernice. It will be interesting to see what Badia a Coltibuono can achieve in more favorable years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Badia a Coltibuono has come on strong in recent years. It’s hard to tell to what extent, if any, the conversion to biodynamic farming is playing in the quality of the wines, but the bottom line is that today Badia a Coltibuono is making the best and most consistent wines of its history. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Apricot, plum and spiced apple flavors lend a fruity character to this sweet white, with notes of toffee and mineral. This is big and robust, leading to a long, roasted walnut– and iodine-accented finish. Drink now through 2016. 92 cases made, 25 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Select to Add