The 2008 Chianti Colli Senesi is a pretty, mid-weight offering laced with red berries, flowers, tobacco and licorice. This a somewhat slender, focused Chianti, but all of the elements fall nicely into place. The purity of the fruit and the gorgeous aromatics are striking for a wine at this level. The estate’s Chianti is 85% Sangiovese plus Canaiolo and Mammolo, all native varieties. Roughly one-third of the wine spent four months in 300-liter American oak barrels, the rest was aged in steel. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. These new releases from Salcheto span several vintages, but they all have one thing in common: they are absolutely terrific. Readers who haven’t yet discovered Salcheto are missing out on some of the most delicious wines being made in Tuscany today. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725