It’s hard to avoid slipping into automotive metaphors when talking about the 2001 Campoleone, made at the Lamborghini family estate near Lake Trasimeno – sleek lines, power to spare, super acceleration from start to finish, a shift into overdrive on the finish. Suffice it to say that this is Umbria’s prototypical Sangiovese/Merlot blend, an intense dark ruby with a potent, spicy, red currant, raspberry, and plum nose, a sumptuous texture with superior volume, velvet, and sweetness, and exceptional length, grip, and sensuality on the close. Better this 2001 or the equally formidable 1999? Let’s just say that it’s likely to be a photo-finish, and either could take the checkered flag. Drink: 2005-2020. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620