A thrilling, nearly perfect efforts is the 2006 Estate Cuvee. A blend of 49% Syrah, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Petit Verdot, the 2006 Estate Cuvee may be even better. Tasting like a superb example of a premier grand cru St.-Emilion made from California's limestone soils, it exhibits a dense purple color as well as a perfume of sweet creme de cassis, fruitcake, licorice, incense, tobacco leaf, and spice box. A voluptuous texture, fabulous opulence, and thrilling concentration as well as purity make for a prodigious example of blended red wine that will provide enormous pleasure and complexity for 12-15+ years.Transplanted Frenchman, Stephan Asseo (from St.-Emilion), has found a home as well as some great terroirs in the limestone soils of Paso Robles (all his vineyards are situated on the western side of Highway 101). Asseo continues to go from strength to strength, producing a fabulous portfolio of wines that makes L-Aventure one of the bright, shining reference points for the region. This is one of the California Central Coast superstars, and the wines are worth every cent.Tel. (805) 227-1588; Fax (805) 227-6988

Along the same lines, the 2006 Estate Cuvee gives up big, layered and ripe aromas of assorted dark fruits, toasted spice, roasted herbs and licorice in a full-bodied, exuberant and decadent package. A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, it’s still youthful and lively, yet has a rounded, approachable feel that just begs to be drunk. While I’m sure it will still be superb in another decade, I’d lean toward drinking it over the coming 5-7 years or so. Tel. (805) 227-1588; www.aventurewine.com

A touch rustic, but in a pleasing way, with gravelly mineral, pebble, pepper and crushed wild berry flavors that are intense and firm, yet the fruity flavors push through on the finish. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2012. 1,200 cases made. -JL