A dazzling effort from this traditionally run bodegas, the 1994 Torre Muga is a terrific Rioja. A blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 10% Graciano, this wine emerges from the estate's oldest vines, and is aged in small barriques. A breakthrough in what will undoubtedly be a bevy of cult Riojas, made from old vines, and aged in small casks, this is a full-bodied, superbly-concentrated, fragrant, multi-dimensional wine.The color is a deep dark ruby with some lightening at the edge. The nose offers up sweet scents of black cherry liqueur, raspberries, licorice, smoke, lead pencil, and pain grille. In the mouth, there are lush layers of fruit that cascade over the palate, as well as full body and gobs of glycerin. This Rioja possesses gorgeous sweetness of fruit (from extract, not sugar), as well as impeccable purity and overall harmony. Anticipated maturity: now-2015. This wine spent 22 months in American oak vats, followed by 16 months in 100% new Allier oak casks!Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 1994 Torre Muga is dark ruby with a garnet rim. It, too, is layered and plush with underlying structure. It is at its peak and should continue to offer pleasure for a decade to come. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767