The 2009 Vall Llach is a blend of 50% Carinena, 25% Merlot, 10% Garnacha and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon from 110-year-old vines aged entirely in new French oak. It has a ripe, decadent bouquet of liquorice, kirsch and star anise with good delineation considering the vintage. The palate shows much better balance and control than the Dous de Vall Llach with ripe, liquorice-tinged dark fruit, fruitcake, date and spices, the finish composed and focused. While I have criticized Vall Lloch for over-ripeness in the past, this is very well-made and demonstrates focus and cohesion. Drink 2015-2025+ Founded in Porerra in the early 1990s by Lluis Llach and Enric Costa, Vall Llach introduced their first vintage in 2000. Their vineyards include some old vine Carinena and Garnacha between 60 and 90 years of age, which are complemented by outsourced fruit. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Importers, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700; www.foliowines.com