The Blancks’ 2004 Riesling Rosenbourg – from a granite site between Kientzheim and Riquewihr – smells of fresh lemon, gentian, and sage. Delicate and juicy, this merely 12% alcohol wine displays the sort of generous, refreshing, and entirely sweetness-free personality that used to be routine in “l(fā)ow end” Alsace Riesling. Frederic and Philippe Blanck are among the most determined late-releasers, so that even from 2004 the top wines are only now appearing in the market, and I tasted nowhere near all of this domaine’s abundant cuvees from 2005 and 2004. Frederic Blanck is eloquent in his expressions of traditionalism and viticultural idealism. I applaud the number of classically dry yet elegant and even delicate Rieslings he renders. (He says he cannot sell a truly dry-tasting Pinot Gris in France nowadays). But I must say I did not always find a vinous concentration concomitant with his idealism, particularly when it came to the numerous (and certainly ready-to-drink) 2002s that are still for sale.Imported by: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and by The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998 0029.