The exquisite 1993 Chardonnay Lorenzo Vineyard from the Sonoma Coast reveals a smoky, buttered, roasted hazelnut, ripe orange-scented nose, full body, an exceptionally impressive, layered, concentrated mouthfeel, and gorgeous purity and length. Only a handful of the greatest burgundies (i.e., Coche-Dury's 1986 and 1990 Corton-Charlemagnes, Leroy's 1989 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres, and Michel Niellon's 1985, 1986, and 1989 Batard-Montrachet) can match the spectacular level of complexity and quality Marcassin's 1993 Lorenzo Vineyard Chardonnay has achieved. If the Hudson is capable of lasting 6-8 years, the Lorenzo should drink well for at least 3-5 years, but who can now resist it? The three 1993 Marcassin Chardonnays are profoundly complex, rich, super-concentrated Chardonnays that are neither heavy nor flabby. Bottled without fining or filtration, they are all extraordinary examples of this varietal. I utilize nearly all of my allocation each year in blind tastings with Burgundy experts, placing the Marcassin wines in vinous confrontations with France's greatest Montrachets, Chevalier-Montrachets, Batard-Montrachets, and Corton-Charlemagnes. Most of the time the Marcassin wines run away with top honors from other tasters who are admitted Burgundy wine fanatics. There are no secrets to Marcassin's success. Low yields, a non-interventionist winemaking philosophy that eschews any type of processing in favor of wild yeasts, and no acidification, fining, or filtration combine in a magical manner to produce intense wines of razor sharp clarity and complexity.
I have saved my most exemplary praise for Helen Turley who, along with her husband, John Wetlaufer, are the proprietors of Marcassin. Her 1993 Chardonnays, which are as extraordinary as the 1992s and 1991s, have just been released, but readers should not expect to find any of these wines on retailer's shelves as they are mainly sold via the winery's mailing list (although rumor has it that the New York City eateries, Montrachet and Le Bernadin, carry the wine). Tel. (707) 942-0158
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