Last tasted from barrel, but in entirely stable and clarified condition, Zind-Humbrecht’s 2006 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Selection de Grains Nobles is truly Esszencia-like: barely wine (at around 5% alcohol); nearly gelatinous yet weightless; and hiding some 375 grams of sugar (analysis had not yet been rendered). On the one hand there are nougat and caramel on display, while on the other there is a mingling of citrus, liqueur, citrus oils, and fresh citrus that conveys reverberative intensity to the palate and causes my eyes and salivary glands to water and my nostrils to flare. Oxidative complexity of toasted nuts and aromatic old furniture wood add the inscrutable mystery of the amazing in store here. There could hardly be a more amazing tribute to a vintage that most growers would like to forgot, than this elixir that will almost certainly be glorious a quarter century or more from now by which time, indeed, 2006 will have otherwise been forgotten. “After the experience of 2003,” remarks Olivier Humbrecht with an eye to his 2007s, “I’m never going to complain about having and extra gram or two of acidity.” In fact, Humbrecht considers 2007 ideal in nearly every respect, having permitted the grower the luxury of picking under optimum conditions for each grape variety and style. The fruit was completely healthy, insists Humbrecht, “you could walk through the vineyards for half an hour and fine one spoiled berry,” … except, of course, where the rot was noble! This year’s generally dry-tasting, relatively low-alcohol, high acid, high-extract Rieslings are not always the most youthfully approachable or winsome in style, but the best are profound; whereas Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer ran to extremities of potential alcohol, even though the harvest was finished before mid-October. Far fewer wines went through malo-lactic transformation here from 2007 than usual – the pHs were often so low they proved inhospitable to the necessary bacteria. As for 2006, it’s clear that this is a year to test the meddle of any grower, and it is therefore not surprising that Zind-Humbrecht was among the estates to demonstrate that excellence and even excitement were not ruled out by the weather. Furthermore, he arrived at an average 2006 yield virtually identical to that of 2005. “Of course,” asserts Humbrecht, “quality in 2006 depended on how you handle your vineyards and your vines the whole year through. It was a vintage where, if you made a mistake in the vineyards, you got slapped pretty hard at harvest time, unlike 2007 where if you made a mistake, nature was forgiving.” The completion of fermentations in 2007 was spread over even more months than usual, often with late bottling; frequently with no racking; and my notes are based both on tastings from bottle early this year (sometimes referencing the wine’s performance from cask) and in a few instances solely on tastings from cask. Two 2007 Pinot Gris “Trie Speciale” – from Clos Windsbuhl and Clos Jebsal – were not even wine yet last I visited, and will in any case not be released for at least another year.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724
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