From a deeper site just below Caillerets and north of the Santenots du Milieu, a 2005 Volnay Chevret offers generous ripe blackberry, a simple, salty mineral expression, and a compelling richness and sheer fruit intensity. Dark forest floor notes are only hinted at, although this is almost certain to offer more complexity after allowing it 5-7 years to shut down and recover. (The 2002 Chevret is beguiling today, but Rossingol doesn’t think that’s what we’ll find in a bottle of 2005 at the same age.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.

Distinctive. Dark fruits--blackberry, black currant--along with licorice and spice notes permeate this concentrated red. It's full of savory character, with a mineral-saline streak on the finish. Best from 2014 through 2026. 300 cases made. -BS