The 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro offers up red cherries, spices, flowers and herbs in a mid-weight style. Hard, angular tannins and a sense of underlying greenness both detract from the wine's balance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. These new releases from Ruffino stand out for a style that aims for extreme concentration and intensity. Once again I get the sense the estate is simply trying too hard and that the wines might benefit from an easing off of the accelerator.Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

There’s a very plush and velvety quality to this wine that is enhanced by aromas of red berry, pipe tobacco, natural rubber and exotic spice. The wine has a ripe, fruit-forward personality and a smooth, velvety finish that is broad, powerful and long lasting. Large percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon back the Sangiovese.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 91