The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro remains the bellwether wine from this historic property. It is a layered, full-bodied wine with attractive notes of tobacco, sweet red cherries, wild herbs and toasted oak. The wine’s density, persistence and complexity make it one of the better versions in recent memory. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

There’s a distinctive mineral aspect that sets this wine apart. Those aromas recall white stone or slate and enhance the wine’s elegance and food pairing potential. The mouth is bright and ripe with red cherry and fresh berry notes on the close. It would pair well with braised meat.——M.L.(9/1/2008)—— 91