The 2005 Barolo Ravera is a big, concentrated wine that comes to life with a gorgeous display of dark fruit, flowers, minerals and menthol. This rich, sumptuous Barolo shows tons of energy and integrity with a long, finely tuned finish. The estate gave the Ravera 24 months in 25-30 hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. This is an outstanding set of new releases from Cogno, one of Piedmont’s under the radar stars. Proprietors Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno are doing great work at their small, family-run property. From top to bottom, all of these wines merit your attention. The Barolos in particular are special. Fermentation is done with the traditional submerged cap method and the wines stay in contact with the skins for an additional two weeks or so, taking the total time of fermentation/maceration to roughly 30 days, a bit longer than had been the case in the recent past. Like many estates in Piedmont, Cogno has increased the amount of large, neutral oak used for the Barolos and is relying less on small French oak barrels.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Dried rose petal and red fruit on the nose. Full, with very sweet strawberry character and caressing tannins. Long and balanced. Best after 2012. 1,000 cases made. -JS

Roses, tar, and cherries in the nose, lovely black cherry fruit with underlying leather and earth in the mouth.

Elvio Cogno is a winery to watch closely in the future. These are exciting wines, loaded with charm and personality. The 2005 Ravera cru expression is tightly packed with fragrant fruit, floral and spice aromas and the mouthfeel is smooth, silky and long. Drink after 2015.