Has clean, sharp aromas of pear, peach and melon, veering into tropical fruit; also lots of smoky, toasty oak. Tastes rich, ripe, round and complex. Big fruit, plus all the complexities new oak and lees add to the package. Fancy and stylish. Still tightly wound; you’d be best off to let it settle for a while.——S.H.(2/1/2000)—— 91