The top cuvee of red Hermitage, the 2004 Hermitage Le Greal (a blend of grapes from the estate’s Greffieux and Meal vineyards) achieved 14% natural alcohol. A pure, well-textured, elegant effort with hints of Pinot Noir-like finesse and sensuality, this medium-bodied 2004 is a noteworthy success in this irregular vintage. Consume it over the next decade. Importer: JAO Wine Imports, McLean, VA.

In a cool vintage like 2004, Sorrel’s parcels in the warmest terroirs of the hill (Le Meal and Les Greffieux) can outperform. This is less rich than the 2005, but still amazingly flattering, filled with spicy complexity and red fruit. Drink now–2020.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 92