The 2008 RESERVA “OLD VINES” is an old vines field blend (70 years) aged in a mixture of French (85%) and American (15%) oak for 16 months. This traditional favorite delivers again this year. Initially quite disjointed, showing its oak far too much, it eventually proves it has the structure and complexity to become something else in the cellar, becoming surprisingly graceful and elegant, with a crisp, rather austere demeanor after 90 minutes of air. It is particularly tight and closed at the moment. Its power and overall balance suggests it will show better in a few years. The longer I had it open, the more I liked it, and it showed nicely the next day as well, crisp and focused, beautifully structured, velvety in texture. Much to my surprise, after an hour or so on Day 2—it was better still, a very good sign. At the moment, I confess a preference for the ’07 though. As with a lot of ‘08s, some cellar time may help, and it may not always be as obvious what is going on with the wines early on. There were 105,000 bottles produced, plus some halves and large format bottles. Drink 2012-2023. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

From low-yielding 70-year-old vines, this is a beautifully structured wine, its dark tannins balanced by complex dark coffee, plum skins in a rich texture. It’s obviously a wine for aging —give it at least four years.——R.V.(11/1/2010)—— 94