The 2004 GOLD RESERVE, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Mourvedre (40%) and Syrah (10%), is another obvious step-up in the lineup reviewed this issue, and the only wine of the group that really has any structure of note. The mid-palate remains elegant. It comes in at 14.5%, and handles the alcohol very well. Focused and precise, with good aromatics, the wine has the ability to expand in the glass and develop with some air. It shows enough backbone to allow it to hold gracefully for a few years. In fact, it drank decently the next day, although it didn’t hold for long at that point. The tannins are well integrated and not intrusive. Drink now-2014.Massaya is run and owned by Lebanon’s Sami and Ramzi Ghosn, with participation by the owners of Chateaus Vieux Telegraphe and Bellefont-Belcier in France. Massaya’s first vintage was 1998. Its first Gold Reserve was in 1999. The winery began by making “Arak,” the Lebanese spirit, in a light blue bottle; hence the name “Massaya,” meaning “Twilight.” The winery today makes about 250,000 bottles a year, of which about 150,000 are the entry level “Classic.”Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620