The dense ruby/purple-colored 2002 Optimus Estate, an innovative blend of 50% Syrah, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Zinfandel, offers a complex bouquet of briery fruit interwoven with cherries, creme de cassis, licorice, truffles, and smoke. Ripe, with crisp acidity, medium to full body, abundant concentration, and a savory, round mouthfeel, this lovely red should drink well for a decade. Tel. (805) 227-1588

This complex Syrah and (with a little Zin) showcases both varieties at their western Paso Robles best. The Syrah is rich in dark berry-cherry and mocha flavors, while the Cabernet adds cassis and a nice tannic structure. I’m not sure what the 4 % of Zin brings, maybe a wild, peppery note. The final impression is of real class and distinction. Drink now and for the next few years. ——S.H.(10/1/2005)—— 94