The 2010 Dolcetto d’Alba Priavino bursts from the glass with juicy dark fruit. Scents of tobacco, leather and incense add complexity as this layered wine fills out its big frame. Once again, Voerzio’s Dolcetto is a standout. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. It is virtually impossible to go wrong with anything that emerges from Roberto Voerzio’s cellar these days. Voerzio pays much more attention to his entry-level wines than the overwhelming majority of his colleagues. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620