The 2002 Reserva, from an average vintage, is nonetheless excellent. Medium ruby-colored, it offers a fragrant bouquet of cedar, spice box, leather, and blackberry. Supple and easy-going on the palate, it has ample complex fruit and moderate length. Drink it over the next 3-5 years.Baron de Ley is a solid source of traditionally styled RiojaImporter: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; www.frederickwildman.com

Fiery, hot aromas feature raspberry, burnt leaves, balsamic notes and earth. It’s wild and jumpy in the mouth, with rhubarb and cranberry defining the tight, underdeveloped palate, while the finish is tangy and almost peachy. Shows many cool-year characteristics of a 2002.——M.S.(4/1/2008)—— 84