The 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is incredibly still alive and pleasurable, offering up hints of honey, candied pineapple and strong anise character. Full-bodied and lush in the mouth, it ends on some slightly oily notes and hints of orange marmalade. It may not be for everyone, but I found it fascinating. Christophe Sabon says the family enjoys these very old vintages of the white with lobster dishes, which seems as good a match as any I can think of.
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