Lagrange's recent vintages are powerfully constructed wines made to survive several decades of aging with grace and complexity. The dark ruby-colored 1985 is deep, rich, long, and, for a 1985, surprisingly backward and tannic. Medium bodied, elegant, and packed with fruit, it is a long-distance runner. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted, 1/97.

The first outstanding-quality Lagrange from its new regime. Distinctive, with dark chocolate and prune aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and big with lots of silky tannins. Needs time. Try after 1997.--The Bordeaux 50.