Readers looking for a good Pinot Gris should check out Morgan’s 2006 Pinot Gris R and D Franscioni Vineyard. Most California Pinot Gris are insipidly light and innocuous, but this effort possesses real personality and character. Light to medium-bodied with plenty of orange and sweet apple jam-like fruit notes, it is a dry, refreshing, fruit-driven white to enjoy over the next 1-2 years. Tel. (831) 751-7777; Fax (831) 751-7780

The crisp, elegant, medium-bodied, fresh 2006 Pinot Gris exhibits hints of apple skin and browned butter. It, too, should be consumed over the next year.www.morganwinery.com