The 2004 Montrachet is simply dazzling. Totally seamless and silky on the palate, the 2004 speaks to total finesse above all else. I especially like the way the 2004 remains gracious and light on its feet for a wine that delivers so much intensity. Orange peel, spice, white flowers and chamomile grace the palate in a silky, gracious wine that conquers all the sense. With time in the glass the minerality becomes more pronounced and the wine gains freshness. This is another vintage that really benefits from a few hours of air. The 2004 is just beginning to show the first signs of maturity, but it has enough pedigree to drink well for at least two more decades. It is a great Montrachet, albeit in much more restrained style than the more flamboyant vintages. The 2004 was brought in on October 5, the last day of the harvest, and seems to have reaped all the benefits of the last six weeks of the growing season, a period characterized by copious sunshine and moderately warm temperatures. When it comes to overall balance, the 2004 is utterly magnificent.