The 2007 Sierra Cantabria Coleccion Privada was aged for 18 months in new French and American oak. It offers up a sexy, kinky, exceptionally perfumed nose of sandalwood, incense, violets, truffle, and wild black berries. Opulent and succulently-fruited on the palate, this already complex wine will blossom over the next 5-6 years and offer a drinking window extending from 2015 to 2027 if not longer. Bodegas Sierra Cantabria is another outstanding Rioja estate owned and operated by the Eguren family. The highlight of my visit in May, 2010 was a vertical of their two renowned single vineyard wines, Amancio and Finca El Bosque. Not to be overlooked is their complete portfolio of new releases, several of which are superb values. The Amancio cuvee comes from a single vineyard of the same name. There is a severe triage in the vineyard before the grapes reach the sorting table. It spends 24 months in new French oak using a “200% new oak” aging regimen before bottling without fining or filtration. The Finca El Bosque Vineyard is a 4 acre parcel of Tempranillo planted on gravel in 1973. The wine is put through ML in new oak and spends 18 months in new, mostly French oak. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The Eguren family makes a handful of take-no-prisoners Riojas, and this is probably the best value among them. Earthy and deep; the roasted berry, ham and sweet vanilla aromas lead to a palate that’s the picture of health and balance. The fruit character is outstanding as are nuances of tobacco, chocolate and spice. Drink from 2012–2020. ——M.S.(4/1/2011)—— 93