One of the finest roses made in Australia is Charles Melton’s Rose of Virginia. The light to medium ruby-hued 2004, a blend of Grenache, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir, is an exuberant, candied cherry-scented and flavored, crisp, elegant effort that cuts a broad swath across the palate. It finishes with loads of fruit and little residual sugar. Importer: Ted Schrauth, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA, tel. (831) 689-9080; Bluewater Wines, Warwick, RI, tel. (401) 739-7744; Commonwealth Wines, Mansfield, MA, tel. (508) 261-9300; and Domaine Select, New York, NY, tel. (212) 279-0799

Stop and smell the rose and you’ll get what I think a good rose should smell like: a red wine with a slight chill. Deep plum, blackberry and raspberry aromas are edged in flint, with like flavors on the palate and a finish where the flinty dryness is reprised. Deep pink-magenta in color—not shy. A curious blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Cab, and Pinot Meunier. ——D.T.(12/31/2004)—— 89