Wafting from the glass with scents of crisp yellow orchard fruit, ripe white peach, beeswax and oyster shell, the 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and charming, with a deep and voluminous core of fruit, lively acids and a saline finish. This has gained in tension with élevage.