The 2005 Verdejo is a deluxe, French oak-aged Verdejo. Medium straw-colored, the oak is decently integrated but the wine is straightforward and monochromatic. It has good depth and concentration but is no better than a number of its unoaked peers at a fraction of the price. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com

Not a wine for everyone. In fact, it’s probably not for most people. This is a mature Verdejo with a yellow color and a ton of crusty oak. It smells like cinnamon and vanilla, while the apple-family fruit is waxy and soft. Then even more oak and bitterness come up late. Idiosyncratic stuff, and probably better two years ago. A Europvin, Christopher Cannan selection, imported by multiple importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines.——M.S.(11/15/2008)—— 85