Wonderfully alive in the glass, the 2009 Serpico (Aglianico) is terrific in this vintage. A layered, beautifully expressive wine, the 2009 flows across the palate with dark fruit. Game, smoke, tobacco, cloves and incense develop later, adding gravitas and weight, but without excess heaviness. Feudi has done a wonderful job of preserving tons of varietal character, while giving this Aglianico a measure of pure polish and finesse I don’t remember seeing in the past. The 2009 is so striking in its beauty it can be enjoyed today, but there will be even more reward for those who can wait at least a few years more. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Once again, Feudi impresses for the sheer breadth of their range. From top to bottom, this is a terrific set of wines from one of the benchmark wineries in Campania, and all of Italy, for that matter. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642