My favorite wine of the collection is the 2006 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard. Dark ruby-colored, it has an enticing bouquet of smoke, spice box, violets, incense, black cherry, and plum. With an extra measure of depth and length, this succulent, full-flavored, friendly wine will deliver pleasure through 2018. Boedecker Cellars is the winery of husband/wife team Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker. The wines are all produced from contracted fruit and bottled in Stelvin screw caps in their new winery in an industrial section of Portland. Many of their wines are held back for an additional year of bottle aging. Tel. (503) 288-7752; www.boedeckercellars.com

Smooth and focused, with lovely blueberry, currant, raspberry and spice flavors that glide easily over a bed of fine-grained tannins, lingering on the open-textured finish. Drink now through 2016. 50 cases made. -HS

Shea shows some muscle here, yet remains fruit-driven, with a lush midpalate mixing strawberry and raspberry fruit with cola/sassafras soda flavors. In keeping with Boedecker’s style, this wine is extremely clean, the fruit is fresh and the flavors nicely detailed. Nothing big or over the top here, but first-class winemaking.——P.G.(7/1/2009)—— 90