A 2006 Meursault Genevrieres represents another surprisingly fruit-forward, generously ripe example of its vintage, as well as another Girardin sample significantly marked by its new wood. Lime and ripe apricot are tinged with vanillin, lanolin, citrus zest, and brown spices in the nose and on a slightly warm but impressively rich palate where caramelized apricot and pineapple come to the fore. The finish is marked by a slight drying from the wood together with pungency of citrus zest. The elements need time to integrate before one can estimate this wine’s age-worthiness. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.