Badia A Coltibuono's 1997 Chianti Classico is a seductive, luscious effort that augers well for the sexiness of this vintage. Made from a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cannaiolo, it possesses excellent concentration, in addition to jammy strawberry and cherry fruit intermixed with smoke, earth, and spice. Because of its soft, velvety texture and rich finish, it is the type of Chianti that will delight Italian restaurants. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620