One of the more famous wineries in Chianti, this is a reliable name for solidly made, ageworthy Chiantis. I was disappointed in their value-priced negociant wine, the 1995 Cetamura Chianti, normally a candidate for one of my best buys. Lamentably, the 1995 was shallow and thin. In contrast, the 1995 Chianti Classico exhibits good cherry, spicy, leathery scents, in a medium-bodied, deep ruby-colored, supple format. It possesses 4-5 years of aging potential. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620