The leader of the pack in terms of stylistic expression, the 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella is a beautiful wine that remains fiercely true to its Valpolicella roots. In a group tasting of Marion’s reds, this wine occupies its own universe in terms of personality and distinguishing aromatic characteristics. Tones of spice, overripe fruit and dried apple skin make you feel like you are talking to a local in his or her native dialect. This is an authentic, territory-driven wine with budding tertiary aromas of resin, cigar box and dried cedar-wood. Drink 2014-2022. At the end of a long, cypress-lined drive is magic Marion. More than anyone else (including much bigger names), Stefano and Nicoletta Campedelli represent the purest expression of non-Classico Amarone that I know. Located in Marcellise in the eastern part of Valpolicella, their wines show a charmingly wild, crisp and edgy quality that you don’t find in the nearby Valpolicella Classico zone. Stefano is an accidental winemaker: He started out by producing gift bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon to give to guests at his 1993 wedding. His gift keeps on giving. Importer: Omniwines Distributing, www.omniwines.com