One of the densest colored and thickest efforts in this impressive portfolio is the 2003 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a fragrant perfume of Asian spices, incense, blackberries, and cassis. Gentle notes of herbs and pepper also emerge, creating an exotic aromatic impression that is somewhat misleading given the classic, medium to full-bodied, structured feel in the mouth. This youthful beauty possesses a certain accessibility, and should age nicely for a decade. Tel. (805) 688-2477

Built more on acid than on tannin, this is a light-bodied, easy-to-drink Syrah that shows all of the requisite varietal characteristics: smoke, meat and pepper alongside crisp red berry flavors. Nicely complex; an intellectual wine rather than a hedonistic one. ——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 84