The 1990 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti continues to cruise along, blossoming in the glass with a lavish bouquet of black cherry, blackberry, sous bois, dark spice and a touch of game. On the palate, the wine is ample and full-bodied, with a chassis of fine, melted tannins—though just a few rough edges poke out on the finish (a function of arrested phenolic maturity?)—enrobed in juicy, vibrant fruit that lingers through the long and penetrating finish. Bottle number 7492.