The single-vineyard 2005 Pinot Bianco Vorberg is sweet, rich and focused with a gorgeous inner tension in its finessed texture. It offers outstanding length and enough structure to drink well to age ten. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016. Cantina di Terlano is one of Italy’s top estates, something made all the more remarkable considering it is a cooperative. The entry-level bottlings have been among my favorite house wines for many years. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, they offer much varietal character at reasonable prices. They are also a great introduction for readers who want to learn more about the unique wines of Alto Adige. In addition, the estate produces a set of single-vineyard whites and reds which are reference-point wines for the region. The single-vineyard wines typically spend longer on their lees and are aged partly or wholly in casks. The top-of-the-line selections (in fatter bottles) see a percentage of smaller barrels. The Sauvignon Quarz, Gewurztraminer Lunare and Nova Domus in particular represent some of the most intensely flavored, unique and age-worthy wines to come out of the region. Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899

This Riserva Pinot Bianco boasts inviting aromas of almond nut, stone fruit, honey and roasted chestnuts. The wine is full and round with thick density and a blast of mature fruit on the close. Pair it with duck or pork-based dishes.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 90