The top cuvee of the house (but with the production limited to approximately 500 or so cases) is the Hermitage Les Bessards, only made in the best vintages. The 2004 Hermitage Les Bessards has dense ruby/purple color and a beautifully sweet nose of creme de cassis, underbrush, mineral, and subtle oak. The tannins are relatively supple, but the wine is rich, full-bodied, and atypically thick and intense for a 2004. This is a beauty and reminiscent of Chave’s brilliant 2004 red Hermitage, combining both power and elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

The 2004 Hermitage les Bessards is an elegant, layered and ready-to-go Hermitage that gives up classic smoked duck, Asian spices, soy, mineral and assorted dark fruits. It's medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated, balanced and seamless, with lots of charm. Drinking beautifully today, enjoy bottles anytime over the coming decade.