Showing similar to a bottle last year, the 2003 Hermitage les Bessards is a big, full-bore, pedal-to-the-metal Hermitage that's loaded with currants, smoked meats, roasted herbs, beef blood and chocolate. Decadent, voluptuous and full-bodied with sweet tannin, it has beautiful purity of fruit and a terrific finish. it's an incredible wine that can be enjoyed anytime over the coming two decades.

The luxury cuvee, the inky/blue/purple-hued 2003 Hermitage Les Bessards (4,200 bottles; 13.6% alcohol), exhibits a huge perfume of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, licorice, and scorched earth. With superb richness, magnificent intensity, and a full-bodied, tannic finish, it will benefit from 5-10 years of cellaring, and should age for 30+ years. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Incredibly rich, velvety-textured and long, this is a great example of Hermitage from a superripe vintage. It’s dense like fruitcake without being excessively heavy, and boasts such a panopoly of nuance as to be spellbinding, ranging from spice and herb to black olive and espresso. Wow! Drink now–2025.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 95