Perhaps it is too soon to see noticeable improvements under the new ownership of the Louis Roederer firm, but tasting through this wine portfolio was not much fun. Two wines of interest are the 1995 Merlot VDP d'Oc and 1994 Hermitage Les Bessards. The Hermitage Les Bessards is Delas's top cuvee, and it was splendid in both 1990 and 1991. The 1994 reveals a dark plum color, and a sweet, jammy, ripe nose of black fruits intermixed with lavish quantities of toasty new oak. As the wine sits in the glass, the oak subsides, and sweet, jammy, black currant/cassis fruit takes over. This wine jumps 4-5 points in quality with ten minutes of breathing. There is good tannin and density to this medium to full-bodied wine, as well as outstanding richness and ripeness. It will be a candidate for an outstanding rating with another 1-3 years of cellaring. Look for it to last for 15 years. Importer: Pressoir Deutz Winery Inc., Arroyo Grande, CA; tel. ??????