The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 1985 Grands échézeaux Grand Cru is showing spectacularly well, soaring from the glass with aromas of blackberries and cassis mingled with notions of hoisin, exotic spices, orange rind, peonies and cola. Full-bodied, rich and ample, it's velvety and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, superb depth and dimension and a long, expansive and intensely perfumed finish. Every glass revealed different but equally captivating nuances over the course of the evening.