A visit from good friends gave me the occasion to open a bottle of the 1980 Grands échézeaux Grand Cru, and it showed better than the example I reported on in my feature on the 1980 vintage last year. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, rose petals, incense, musk, blood orange and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with a deep core of fruit, fully melted tannins and bright balancing acids. Seamless and perfumed, it's in its prime today, but even from a cold cellar, there's no reason to tempt providence.
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